#Calibrate cetus3d mods#

The Up mini now prints PLA without issue and the up mini is useful again Thanks to Arhi and tinyfab for their contributions. After that, the config.txt was modified to inform Smoothieware that the sensor was now a thermistor with a Beta of 3950 and from that point on PLA prints perfectly. A 10uF capacitor was also connected to the junction and ground to stabilize the reading. Then a simple 4.7Kohm pullup resistor was added that connected to a 3.3 Volt source on the MCU to the orange wire from the ribbon and this was connected to the connection at P1.9 on the MCU header. Then the pin on the tinyfab MCU for the extruder sensor (P1.9) had to be cut to isolate the pin from the up mini circuitry. This required cutting the ribbon from the extruder to the main board in order to break out the non-grounded wire for the temperature sensor (orange wire in the ribbon). The stepper/heater assembly purchased was a simple swap except that the new temperature sensor is a 100K type PTC thermistor versus the PT100 NTC sensor on the stock up mini.

#Calibrate cetus3d mods#

I previously tried far too many mods thinking the PLA printing issues were a result of the stepper running too hot or the feed gear being too aggressive for the filament but in the end the true issue was heat traveling up the tube from the heater to the throat causing too much pressure for the stepper feed assembly to overcome. It required replacing the extruder assembly with a generic one purchased off of Ebay that uses a PTFE liner in the throat between the stepper feed and the heater. I managed to get the up mini to print PLA reliably with the custom MCU running smoothieware. so it will not be table 10 by 10C but with bunch of random points on the curve but same thing.

You don't need super accurate resistors, get a bunch of them between 100 and 250R, you measure resistance, you use the table (or online calculator like: ) you enter the resistance you measure, you check the temperature it represents and then you see what your ADC is reading :D. anyhow, any dmm that will show you 100.00 is good enough, even 100.0 is acceptable. you push 1mA trough resistor and you measure voltage across resistor and you get super accurate resistance value :). This you can do for few bucks, check vast internet knowledge for schematic or ping me I'll draw one for you :). You don't need super accurate anything, any decent dmm is accurate enough at these values, and if you have any electronics knowledge and will to play with it you can make yourself a great precision ohm meter :D. There's always a huge error in temp transfer between a probe and a measured spot, adding a second probe is doubling the error (actually way more then double as you cannot position probe properly) so it's not advisable method. I just have to be sure not to let the heater run away -) You can redo the 9 point calibration to evaluate the leveling result and make test print by printing 9 small cubes on the plate to validate the leveling.I don't have easy access to a super accurate multimeter or a 100 turn pot now I'm a softie not an electronics guy, but I do have a reasonably accurate -50 to 1100C K-type thermocouple meter (thanks to £10 spent on Amazon!) and klipper has a debug console I can use to control the heater then watch the returned adc values as well as the thermocouple measurements to get a calibration curve that way. Step 5. Reset the 9 point calibration values to zero after mechanically leveling the Y-axis. Then re-tighten the screws on the bracket and put everything back as before. You need to loosen the 3 screws holding the bracket, then make sure the bracket, the rods and the build plate are all in parallel.

Step 4. Use the extrusion rod provided (Spool holder rods) as a guide to align the Y-axis to the build plate. Step 3. Slide the Y-axis to the right and remove it from the bracket.

Please note that you do not need to remove the screws, just loosen them is ok. Step 2. Loosen the 3 screws that on the back of the the Y-axis. Therefore leveling Y-axis is essentially leveling the Y-axis bracket.Īrnold, a Cetus MK3 user also share his method here: The leveling of the Y axis is determined by the Y-axis bracket, which is a sheet metal part that connecting the Y-axis to the Z-axis. While investigating the cause of the problem, here we put together a short tutorial for your to fix it. Since we have a few reports about mechanically unleveled Y-axis.